Guide for New Owners
Please familiarise yourself with the following New Zealand laws with regard to being a responsible dog owner/guardian.
Animal Welfare (Dogs) Code of Welfare; version: 1st October 2019
⦁ Transportation of animals in New Zealand
⦁ Temporary housing companion animals
Local Council Bylaws. – for laws pertaining to your specific area of residence.
General routine:
Choose a quiet spot (behind the couch for example or in a quiet corner), and place your new greyhound’s bed there. Your greyhound needs a soft bed such as a folded duvet or minky, cot mattress or similar. We recommend to confine them in one or two rooms for the first week or so. This minimizes stress on the dog and lowers the chances of toilet accidents and helps to set the House Rules.
We highly recommend the use of a crate as a secure ‘Safe Place’ for your new dog, especially if you have children. Greyhounds are used to being in small kennels (crated) and a crate can easily be purchased, borrowed or hired. Placing the crate in an area in or near the family areas enables your greyhound to watch the family activities without being forced to interact.
Your dog is house trained, but will require guidance in their new home. They are unlikely to bark or whine to go out. Watch for pacing behavior. Also put your dog outside before and after meals, and when they get up in the morning or after a nap.
Never bother the dog on their bed or in their crate. Everyone needs a place to be undisturbed and your dog is no exception. If the dog is sleeping on their bed or in their crate, they must not be patted, hugged etc. This is a sure way to stress the dog and could lead to an incident where they growl at a family member. Their bed and crate are their ‘Safe Place’
If you want to give them affection, sit on the couch and call them, and when they come to you, you can give them as much affection and cuddles as you wish etc. Try not to feel sorry for them, no matter what the situation, no matter how stressed /scared/upset they might be – dogs do not understand that emotion, they see it as your weakness, which stresses them even more (as you are their sole provider and they understandably get stressed if they think you are weak). So do not fuss, do not worry, and do not feel sorry for them. Just be calm and appear happy to the dog.
It is good for greyhounds to have more than one bed – perhaps one outside, and one in the hall or a bedroom as well as one in the lounge. You don’t need to need to buy expensive bedding, an old folded duvet will be suitable.
“Greyhound smile” ( it’s helpful to do a google search to see what grinning greyhounds look like). Greyhound grin looks very much like a snarl! So if you have kids, do show them the pictures. Also, many greyhounds sleep grinning, with all their teeth on display. Many greyhounds also sleep with their eyes open. Do not assume your dog is awake and use this as an excuse to go and bother them. You know the old saying “Let sleeping dogs lie” – it is very true. Don’t bother them in their bed and teach your kids they must never do so.
Food notes:
Choose a high-protein kibble; greyhounds do not do well on cereal-based diets -they are similar to cats when it comes to nutrition. Make sure that the protein content of the kibble is above 25%, ie. not cereal-based. Good foods are:
Coprice Working Dog. Purchased through Farmlands/RD1/Fiskens and other local stockists.
RAW ESSENTIALS. HIGHLY recommended NZ made. Great for those wishing to feed a raw diet.
MIGHTY MIX. – HIGHLY recommended NZ made. They also do a great dog roll.
Most greyhounds do well on a raw diet should you wish to go this way. If you wish for help with this, we can refer you to an excellent Facebook group.
Greyhounds have a small stomach and feeding one large meal could cause gastrointestinal problems. It is recommended to feed 2 (or more) smaller feeds per day depending on your dogs requirements.
With kibble, we usually add what we call ‘topping’, to make the kibble not so dry and interesting. Kibble is always best fed moist – add around one cup of Water/Gravy/Bone Broth to each meal. Greyhounds with their narrow noses are inclined to bolt dry kibble and may vomit. We recommend putting kibble in the bowl and then mix it well with topping.
Some suggestions for topping:
⦁ a handful of pet-mince (or people mince - beef/chicken) mixed with half cup warm water, to form a ‘gravy’. You can buy fresh Jimbos pet mince in your petfood chiller, or cheaper frozen petmince, usually in the frozen fish freezer.
⦁ a handful of K9 Natural frozen meat pellets, mixed with ½ cup of warm water
⦁ a small can of mackerel/tuna/sardines/salmon in spring water, mashed
⦁ a sachet of dogfood or catfood (economical and easy cleanup)
⦁ one egg, beaten, every second day or so.
⦁ pet milk/lactose free milk/goats milk/goats milk baby formula
⦁ chopped dog roll (choose a brand without garlic or your dog may pong!) mixed with some water
Greyhounds thrive on:
Chicken necks and chicken carcasses. Chicken carcasses are sold in “Mad Butcher” as ‘soup bones’ and also they are sold in New World and Countdown, but not as well priced as at Mad Butcher (in supermarkets. You sometimes have to ask for them as they don’t always put them outside). Basically - it is a skeleton of a chicken which is left after filleting. We often feed one chicken carcass as a meal itself. Good for helping to maintain healthy teeth and gums.
Chicken necks are great – but do not feed only that as a meal , they are very fatty. 2-3 chicken necks as a treat or side dish a day is more than enough. Chicken necks also have sinew and cartilage which has natural anti-inflammatory properties so are great to feed to older dogs and cats.
POSSYUM dog roll is great to use as treats – you simply take a small slice and chop it up in small pieces and use to that to treat a dog. This roll is made in NZ and has no cereal additives and is very affordable. It is stocked at Farmlands and most SuperMarkets.
Chicken nibbles. Feed only 2-3 nibbles as a treat or part of dinner. Chicken legs and chicken wings too. Mad Butcher sells awesome huge turkey wings and turkey legs. A good option to purchase when ‘on special’!
Meaty bones – all kinds except pork. Please do not buy dried bones from Animates Pet Shops, they are full of chemicals.
Pet Essentials have wonderful range of raw food (like rabbit, alpaca, hare etc) Greyhounds love raw meat as that is what they are fed when racing.
VITAMINS and SUPPLEMENTS:
These can be added to your dogs regular meals or at times when they may appear lacking.
A couple of good options are;
MyBeau is a NZ -made vitamin product. It has been developed at Massey and comes highly recommended! It is stocked in Animates stores and most vets have it too.
Flax seed oil (canine) stocked at most vets. Check out their homepage for detailed stockists.
Pack Leadership:
A retired racer has had a pack leader (a strong and reliable person whom they could rely on to be in control of their environment) all their life –this person was their trainer. They rely on the presence of this person in their life – actually all dogs of all breeds do.
Whether a race dog or pet all dogs require boundaries/expectations, consistency and routine.
Once a dog goes to their new home – the first thing they will do is look to figure out who the pack leader is. This is because they want to make sure there is SOMEONE in this new house that can take care of them. IF the dog cannot locate and recognize this person – the dog can become stressed. Stress in dogs, don’t forget, manifests itself in different ways than in humans, because they are DOGS (more on this below).
Owners experience issues with their dogs (young and old, greyhounds and other dog breeds) when they have failed to give them clear signals that they are the leader of their pack. This leaves the dog with no option, it has to assume responsibility, it has to become a pack leader. It has to ensure the ongoing survival of itself and its pack. And as the dog reluctantly becomes the leader, now in order for pack structure to work, they will have to see the other members of the household as lower pack members. This is their basic instinct.
Stress in dogs manifests itself in any number of ways such as toileting in the house, growling at people and other dogs, yapping hysterically, digging, destroying furniture, howling, separation anxiety, not coming when called etc.
At the same time while being stressed, the dog is trying to do the pack leader job: They may be leading the hunt (going off to the distance and not coming back when called), pulling on the lead, stopping randomly when out on walks, refusing to walk on heel, having ‘no ears’(not listening), wanting attention on its terms, jumping on people (including their owners), telling other pack members off (yes, growling at family members) etc. This is what a pack leader does. The dog is only doing the job that they have to do.
Separation anxiety in dogs is stress-related: The dog might have been given too much affection and attention on their terms, by the humans in the house (as is human nature). This means that they are still unsure whether they are expected to be a pack leader or not and becoming unsettled when lower pack members (you, your partner etc) are not home. Why do they think you are lower pack members? Because you give them those messages (loud and clear) and theyt think they have to do a pack leader job.
To reduce the risk of Separation Anxiety manifesting in your hound, here are some well researched and implemented pointers to get you off to the right start.
(note; they are applicable to all dogs not just greyhounds)
Make sure that you don’t go to their bed and give them affection, only give them treats if they have earned them, ONLY pat or give affection when you call them and they come to you (on your terms, not theirs). Same outside etc- don’t pat them and cuddle them and try not talking to them or giving them any affection if you don’t call them to you first. I know it is hard, as thay are so cute, but they need those messages from you. When you call them, and they come to you, give them affection -but NEVER when they come uncalled and demands it or they will always expect it. As an example, if they come to you, say, while you are sitting on the couch, and puts their head on your lap, you need to turn your body away from them, not make eye contact and make sure you ignore the dog 100%. They will be VERY happy when you do this, as this will reinforce your pack leadership status in dog’s mind and all the stress will go away. If you give them affection when they want it, or just unprompted (going to thier bed and petting them) they just like all dogs, will get confused with these messages and think they are expected to be in charge of the whole pack. The issue is - because most dogs don’t want to be in charge they become unsettled and may start to stress. That stress can manifest itself in toileting inside, barking, digging, separation anxiety, becoming destructive etc
When you prepare their meal (and if they are watching you prepare food, as they do), do eat a cracker or a piece of fruit pretending that you are eating from THEIR bowl. This is to give them a message that a pack leader has already eaten from THEIR bowl and THEY are getting ‘leftovers’. If they are not watching you prepare the food, then simply stand in front of them with their bowl in your hand and eat that cracker/fruit so they believe you are eating from the bowl.
It is advised not to leave a bone, chew or any food item for them when you leave home! This further stresses the dog because they are now given control of food, WHILE the lower pack members (you) are out. Pack leader controls the food -and now, you have left, and given them the food, so in their mind, there is no doubt, they are now expected to be a pack leader! Always remove uneaten food at the end of a meal.
When you leave them to go out, refrain from making any fuss of them (eg saying goodbye, cuddling, patting) This can induce stress in your dog. It is important that you realize that to dogs, this behavior by their owners (saying goodbye, petting, cuddling just before you leave) means that you are SCARED to go out, and by petting them, you are asking them to protect you from the world out there. But of course, they can’t -they are locked in the back yard. So then they start stressing: eg barking, jumping, destroying anything they can get to, digging, howling, peeing inside (if they have access to it) etc.
So - when you leave, do not acknowledge the dog in any way. Do not make eye contact, Do not talk to them. Do not pet them. Act like they do not exist. They will be very happy when you do this – as pack leader acts this way. The dog won’t stress. If you must say goodbye to the dog for yourself, do so ten minutes before you leave. When you do leave the house, do so quietly and with the minimum of fuss concerning the dog.
When you arrive home it is natural to be excited to see your dog and them you, however you don’t want to create a chaotic scene each time you arrive home. There are some simple ways in which you can reduce excitement levels to ensure each time you arrive home is thoroughly enjoyable. DO NOT speak, cuddle, pat or give eye contact to your dog. If the dog comes to greet you and is wagging and jumping around you wanting to say hello - you need to IGNORE them like they do not exist, Walk around them and avoid eye contact. Unlock the door again avoiding looking at the dog, get sorted and once the dog is lying on their bed, or has gone off outside etc, call them to you in a very excited voice! When they come to you -THEN you give them affection, kisses cuddles etc. The message for a dog is crystal clear: they do not have to worry about you any more -you are acting like a pack leader.
If you want your dog on your bed that is up to you. Just make sure you invite them up. Your bed is a pack leader den – you don’t want to stress the dog further by giving them exclusive access to pack leader den. Remember –this will stress them. IF you invite them up that’s fine – it’s on your terms.
To all new dog owners we recommend reading the following book “The Dog Listener” by Jan Fennel. It explains all this in detail, in simple terms. It is not a thick book and is easy reading.
Children notes: (we advise reading even if you do not have children)
Children love to hug dogs. They should be taught not to.
Dogs and young children should not be left alone together. Even the most tolerant can become aggravated. Dogs cannot stand up to badgering. Kids are kids and dogs are dogs and that’s why there are crates/ or safe spaces for the dog to go to where they are away from the family activities. The dog’s bed is one of such places. When you are busy, need an hour or so to do something, you need a place to put the dog when you just can’t handle one more thing. No matter how busy your household is, it is your job to ensure the welfare of the dog and make sure children avoid going to the dog’s safe space and badger the dog while you are busy elsewhere in the house. If you cannot teach your children to respect this, or they cannot be trusted to remember it, then either buy a crate, put the dog inside and lock it or put the dog in a shut room away from the child/children so the child/children cannot disturb the dog (obviously, a few hours is the maximum time you should leave dog in crate).
Children are loud. This can confuse dogs. It’s common for dogs to associate loud noises with trouble.
None of the above refers to greyhounds alone. Each of these below are from Brian Kilcommons’ book Child-Proofing your Dog. They apply to all dogs, all breeds, and all families.
“The dog snapped at my child for no reason.”
There is always a reason. You just didn’t recognize the signs. Adults can read body language, kids can’t.
“But I thought my family was matched to a dog who liked kids! And now he is growling at them!”.
Yes, it is true that the dog loves kids –but dogs, as above, need to be treated properly and respected by the children too. It goes BOTH ways. No matter how much he might like children, he certainly will not like to be constantly badgered, hugged, chased, disturbed by them. He needs and deserves his quiet time (in his bed) where he is SAFE and UNDISTURBED. He is a dog, not a toy.
There are steps that should be taken to correctly set up the dynamics to introducing a greyhound (or any dog) to children and a new home.
Lee Livingood’s book Retired Racing Greyhounds for Dummies is also good reading, as well as Jan Fennel’s Dog Listener.
This is not just “Child-Proofing Your Dog” 101 but also “Dog-Proofing Your Child.”
You need training, the children need training, the other parents need training, and the dog needs training. It is a team effort. Just like in raising children, the dog requires consistency in training.
Why should your children obey you and do what you want if at first you say no and then change your mind? They quickly learn that if they can wear down your patience they will eventually get what they want. Dogs know that too. That’s how kids get spoiled and that’s how dogs get spoiled. A spoiled dog has an attitude problem that you don’t need when you have children.
There are guidelines to introducing an ex-racing greyhound to a home with younger children. If you can commit to following these steps without exception you are up to the challenge:
It is not advised to get a greyhound FOR your child, to grow up with your child, or to teach your child responsibility. This is a family decision and a family dog. It may be your intention to have the greyhound be your child’s dog but your dog will bond first and closest to the person who feeds it, lets them outdoors, generally cares for them, and spends the most time with them. These days kids’ schedules often call for the children to be away from home more than the adults, so guess who they will bond with first? The more the child participates with feeding, caring for, and training your dog, the more the dog will respect your child and seek out their attention. But it cannot and in all probability will not be the child’s responsibility.
If you cannot trust your children not to disturb the dog, buy a crate and use it for housetraining and a safe place for the dog to be in when they need peace and quiet.
Most dogs, of any breed, do not like to be hugged or kissed on the face, etc. Many dogs, including greyhounds, will warm up to this eventually but for the first few months don’t let any child, yours or others do this. Most dogs would rather be scratched on the chest. They see a hand coming over the head as threatening, especially from a being their own size and one as active and confident as a child. Let the dog come to you and the child when you call them.
Don’t let your kids or their friends chase your new greyhound. This includes crowding them or backing them into a situation they feel like they can’t escape from. This provokes fear biting. Their safe place is off limits to everyone- they should be able escape to it when they need to and teach all children not to disturb them there.
Children should avoid approaching the dog whilst eating. If this seems to be a problem, after a few days when it is feeding time and, UNDER SUPERVISION, let your child feed the dog kibble from their hand, flat palm up.
EXERCISE! While your dog is settling in they should be walked by the adults not the children. You should learn about your new dog before passing on the responsibility to younger members of the family. At first you need to walk them with your child tagging along. You need to get a feel for how well your dog walks on a leash. If they are a puller, there are corrections for this. Of course greyhounds may take off after any small moving creature. Be prepared with your hand placed through the leash loop, and call the dog and distract them from the chase (if they are keen to). Your child will learn from you how to correctly hold the leash and walk the dog. After you feel confident, let the child put on the leash (don’t tolerate jumping up and excitement while attaching the leash, wait until they calm down) and walk the dog under your supervision.
When you are comfortable with the situation, the child can walk the dog on their own. Of course this is your call, depending on the child’s age and walking situation in your neighborhood. No, greyhounds don’t need tons of exercise. They are happy to lie around your house. But, as we like to say, “a tired dog is a happy dog” especially with all the nervousness of being new. A walk is good for everybody…just be aware of those neighborhood kids at first who run up and want to hug your new dog around the neck. Don’t let them!Avoid spoiling the dog. This dog came from professional life at the track to having all these sounds, smells, people and whatnot at your house. How would you react? they are not used to a lot of attention and even if they demand it, don’t give it to them.
Greyhounds are not normally rough and tumble dogs. It is best not to let kids play tug of war games or similar rough housing for the first few months. Games, such as these, boost the dog’s confidence and can lead to dominant behaviors especially towards children (this is applies to all dog breeds, big and small). Once your dog knows their place in the pack, these can be fun games to introduce. To begin with, play fetch or games where the dog runs from one child to another.
OBEDIENCE training is a fun way to aid bonding. Your dog needs a job to do and a way to earn treats. You have to earn their respect and they have to learn to respect you.
It is an excellent tool for you and your child in relating to your dog’s place in your home. Go to an obedience class with your dog and your child and eventually have the child give the commands. If the dog won’t obey the child, have the child stand in front of you (as if you were one person) at first so the dog knows to obey both of you. Don’t let them get away with only obeying you. Treat for all good behaviors. Obedience classes are held in most areas around the country.Most people know not to approach a dog sleeping on a bed. It actually goes further than that. Don’t allow kids to approach a dog lying down anywhere. If they are lying down even with their head up, it is their quiet time and they don't want to be disturbed. That includes lying on the floor, on the dog bed, next to the dog bed, or even close to them when they are on the floor. Depending on the dog’s personality they may eventually tolerate close company, but this would be months from now when you really feel comfortable with them. If you want to play/train or whatever with the dog, you can always call them to you.
Greyhounds often sleep with their eyes open and can easily get a fright. Never approach a resting dog without saying their name and ensuring they are awake and alert. This will minimize any chance of a fright response in your dog.
Gratefully provided and reproduced in part with permission from Nightrave Greyhounds NZ.